FOOTWEAR

• Ice Boots - La Sportiva G5 Evo

  The G5 or comparable style boot from other manufacturers is the boot style of choice for all-round conditions. The integrated gaiter design provides a high level of waterproofing and an increase in warmth without sacrificing weight. For these reasons, you will see many experienced climbers and guides in this type of boot over a more traditional leather boot without the gaiter. We highly recommend paying the additional upfront costs for the integrated gaiter when purchasing boots, you won’t regret it!

• Overnight Ice Boots - La Sportiva G2 Evo

  This is a high-performing double boot that allows a climber to move well in the mountains while not being bogged down by the weight of the boot. Double boots offer the benefit of being able to remove an inner liner at night after a day of climbing. Climbers generally place those liners in a sleeping bag overnight which helps the drying process. You can get away with a G5 styled boot for a night or two on mountains like Rainier without needing another style of boot, however, with time, you’ll appreciate the double boot option on long overnight objectives in the winter.

• Overnight Cold Weather Mountaineering Routes - La Sportiva Spantiks

  These are highly tested, extremely durable, double boots built to last and withstand harsh mountain environments. Worth their weight in places like Asia and Alaska.

• Socks - Smartwool Mountaineering Extra Heavy Crew Sock

  Wool retains heat when wet, the heavyweight option will provide the most amount of warmth. Bonus, use these socks when you are sizing your climbing boots at the shop.

UPPER LAYERS

• Synthetic Sun Hoodie - Arcteryx Women’s Taema Hoody and Men’s Cormac Hoody ( Layer 1 )

  As the temperature drops, long sleeves are often a better base-layer option to provide more warmth. On hard hikes into climbs, we find that we still sweat - but a short sleeve leaves our arms more exposed and adds to staying too cold. A long sleeve adds more protection and helps us to stay warmer on those harder, cooler hikes into the climb. If you do sweat, bringing two of these layers, one for the approach and one to swap at the base of the climb will offer the option to stay dry, even if working hard on the morning approaches. The hoodie feature also blocks much of the sun's UVA rays protecting your body from burns, critical on snow. We usually have a vest alongside this layer to keep the core warm.

• Fleece - Arcteryx Women’s Delta Hybrid Hoody and Men’s Delta 1/2 Zip Neck Hoody ( Layer 1 )

  Grided fleeces are a proven technology. They breathe well, add more warmth than a sun hoody, and this piece has a good chest pocket for storing a phone and other small valuables. We swap this layer and the sun hoody interchangeably based on temperature and output for the day. Having an optional hood may be a preference and should be supplemented as needed.

• Mid Layer - Arcteryx Women’s Practitioner AR Hoody and Men’s Practitioner AR Hoody or for a warmer option Proton LT Hoody ( Layer 2 )

  An additional synthetic jacket as a layering and active climbing piece, the Practitioner breaths flawlessly and is essential as a mid-weight layering piece in colder weather. This piece insulates the core, keeping you warmer, and breathes when you need it during high-output activities while also having incredible durability. The Proton LT is its equivalent for non-professional users.

• Insulation Vest - Arcteryx Women’s Atom Vest and Men’s Atom LT Vest ( Layer 2 )

  Vests keep your core insulated and warmer, promoting an overall sense of warmth without adding bulk to the sleeves. Vests are a go-to for us year-round and we typically wear them over our insulation jacket in the cold or over top our fleece during periods of cooler weather. We find synthetics are best for this layer.

• Active Insulation Jacket- Arcteryx Women’s Proton Heavyweight Hoody and Men’s Proton Hoody ( Layer 3 )

  We spend a lot of time in this layer, climbing on cold rock, mild ice days in the canyons, and everything in between. We want this layer to be warm but breathe with pockets since we use this as our outer layer for many activities.

• Hardshell Jacket - Arcteryx Women’s Alpine Guide Jacket and Men’s Alpine Guide Jacket ( Layer 4 )

  Hardshell jacket performance has improved tremendously in the past half-decade, providing the best of protection and breathability while storing in a small profile. For those reasons, more often than not, we keep softshell fabrics at home and bring the hardshell into the mountains. In the alpine environment, we are looking to bend weight and durability, which always seem to be in contrast. This jacket has a good balance of both.

• Cold Weather Synthetic Climbing Jacket - Arcteryx  Nuclei SV Parka ( Layer 4 or 5 )

  Often we try to move fast in the mountains, which starts with efficiency and ends with functionality. This layer typically doesn’t come out of our packs but when winds pick up on ridges, snow starts falling, or where are high altitudes, you can bet we are wearing it! The Nuclei SV promotes warmth with core loft insulation and a thoughtful design that makes climbing tasks easier when the weather is not.

• Belay Parka - Arcteryx Women’s Alpha Parka and Men’s Alpha Parka ( Layer 4 or 5 )

  It’s nice to have a large parka, even if it just sits at basecamp. The cold mornings and nights can get uncomfortable without a little extra insulation. We often sleep in this layer, which helps keep our sleeping bag smaller to save weight without sacrificing warmth. And of course, when the weather is horrible and we still need to climb, we need a storm shelter. The Alpha Parka is Arcteryx’s warmest down-insulated belay parka. Has RDS-certified 850-fill goose down for outstanding warmth and is complemented with mapped synthetic insulation for added breathability in moisture-prone areas and our favorite feature it the 2L GORE-TEX INFINIUM™ with ultralight, ultra-durable Hadron™ face fabric blocks wind and resists water while adding warmth equivalent to 100g of down.

BOTTOM LAYERS

• Synthetic Base Layer - Arcteryx Women’s Rho Heavyweight Bottoms and Men’s Rho Hybrid Bottoms ( Layer 1 )

  Adding a base layer to your bottom half can really keep heat in when it’s cold. This is a classic recommended piece for rock, alpine, ice, and skiing.

• Heavier Weighted Synthetic Pant - Arcteryx Women’s Gamma MX Pants and Men’s Gamma MX Pant ( Layer 2 )

  The Gamma collection is currently the standard colder weather softshell pant for snow/ice/rock environments and we prefer softshells for this layer because of the additional durability you receive from the fabric. This is your outer layer and will go over the top of your other pieces. These layers move well in the mountains and haven’t let us down yet!

• Stormshells- Arcteryx Women’s Beta LT Pant Hadron ( Layer 3 )

  When there’s an active blizzard or it’s just wet outside, you need to keep your layers dry, which in turn keeps you warm. We generally pack a hardshell pair of pants that can layer over all of the above items. Having full zips on both sides for ease of putting on over all layers is key.

• Puff Pants- Arcteryx Men’s Nuclei Pant ( Layer 4 )

  Light, packable, and built for belays, or any place exposed to biting cold, the Nuclei provides warmth that frees you to focus on your task. 80g Coreloft™ Continuous insulation goes from waist to knee, with 60g at the lower leg to balance appropriate warmth and lightweight. The light, tough Arato 15 fabric blocks wind, and GORE-TEX reinforces the seat and knees. Full separating side zips make on-and-off easy - even on hanging belays - and an accessible thigh pocket doubles as a stuff sack.

ACCESSORIES

• Approach Glove - Black Diamond Mid Weight Fleece Glove

  Great to sweat in and wet out on the approach and then toss them into the bag at the start of the climb and forget about them.

• On Route Climbing Glove - Showa Tem-Res 282

  A great all-around climbing glove that is dexterous and made out of rubber, allowing them to stay dry when climbing wet ice routes or when plugging your hands into snow on a couloir. We tend to bring two pairs on a longer climb and swap between the two.

• Colder Weather Climbing/ Belay Glove - Black Diamond Patrol Glove

  High durability, high warmth glove for cold climbing and belaying. We like this glove since it also transfers to a great winter work and ski glove.

• Emergency Mitts - Black Diamond Superlight Mitt and/or Absolute Mitts

  These are emergency pieces of gear and we strongly recommend you have the best gloves. The superlight mitt is plenty warm but is a single glove. If you find you want more, the absolute mitt is a double glove and will provide more warmth. Unless you have an extreme amount of experience in the mountain environment, in the harsh cold, and can make a good judgment call for yourself, mitts are a must, do not go with fingered gloves! They will not provide the warmth you will want in the situation where you will want to wear this layer.

• Sun Hat - Smile Mountain Guides Happy Camper 5 Panel Hat

• Water Bottle

• Food: Energy Bars, Fruit, Sandwiches, Trail Mix. 100 Calories an hour!

• Sunglasses - Julbo MONTEROSA 2

• Goggles - Smith Brand

  Smith makes great sunglasses for snow and is a great option for ski goggles as well. When facing high winds and extreme cold, you will want to change from sunglasses to goggles in order to protect your face better. A low-light lens, a lens that is bright, is best for improving visibility in poor conditions.

• Midweight Balaclava - Outdoor Research Protective Essential Midweight Balaclava

  An optional full-head protective layer for extreme cold.

• Beanie - Outdoor Research Vigor Hybrid Beanie

  A beanie that helps keep your ears and head warm and also fits under a climbing helmet.

• Sunscreen/ Lip balm

• Buff - Smile Mountain Guides TieDye Neck Gaiter